Cefalý, on the north coast of Sicily, is delightful. The anchorage is protected by a jetty and lots of rocks. As we were walking down one narrow street we came upon a green grocer with a truck full of produce hawking his wares. Although we couldn't understand a word, it was clear that the woman two stories up was negotiating with him from her balcony. It's a beach resort that hasn't lost its ancient charm.

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